Use your finger to apply pressure on the seal, pushing against the crank to avoid this. Do not cut or shave the seal on the engine block as an oil leak may result. Lightly oil the new seal half and with the paint stripe side facing the rear of the truck, carefully insert it into the seal hole. Do not damage the oil pump driveshaft (also marked with red arrow). Only use the screwdriver to start the seal moving, then switch over to a needle nose pliers to pull it the rest of the way. It is a rigid piece, so it will follow the crank shape as it is removed. To replace the upper main seal, you will probably have to use a screwdriver and small hammer to get the seal (ends marked with red arrows) to slide around the crank. Do this whether or not you are replacing the pump. Prime the pump by turning the pump and pouring oil in it until it comes out the other end. Be sure it is properly threaded to avoid sucking in air at that location. Thoroughly clean the pick-up tube and thread it onto the new pump, if installing a new pump. You might as well check the teeth on the flexpate and anything else you can see in there. The side with the paint stripe goes towards the rear of the truck. Lightly oil the new seal prior to installing it.
5.9 cummins rear main seal replacement cost install#
Do NOT damage the main bearing! Install a half of the new seal into the slot. Clean the cap and remove the lower half of the main seal. You want to inspect that driveshaft for wear and replace if needed. Use caution when removing it since the oil pump driveshaft runs through it. You may need to pry it with a screwdriver. It is a large cap, not like the usual style. Now it is time to remove the rear main bearing cap. If you are replacing the oil pump, remove the pick-up tube from the old oil pump, unless you will be installing a new one as well. Clean the gasket surface also.Ĭlean the inspection plate and straighten any kinks and warping. Mine had a bit of rust on the inner surface the was more or less removed with the solvent and wiping. Start motor and be sure oil pressure comes up and that there are no leaks.Ĭlean the oil pan with solvent and inspect the mounting flange for warping/damage. Reinstall the oil dipstick, fill with oil and check for immediate leaks. Reinstall the inspection cover, the starter, the transmission to motor struts and the exhaust y-pipes, if removed. This part took the longest of the reassembly for me. If you didn't raise the motor, it can be a pain. If you raised the engine, install the gasket to the block. Using gasket adhesive, install a new gasket on the oil pan, if you didn't raise the engine. Apply RTV to the corners where the main cap contacts the block and where the front of the pan hits the timing cover. Install the primed oil pump, making sure the driveshaft is correctly aligned. If you loosened other caps, start at the center and torque them all, working outwards, in three steps to spec (85 lb-ft for me). Wipe the crank surface and lightly oil the parts afterwards (you want good lube/oil in there not the any dirty stuff). Also apply some RTV to the notches where the oil pan gasket fits. Reinstall the main cap, after applying a drop of loctite on either side of the cap surface, between the bearings and seal. If you do this, you need to retorque ALL the caps when you are done. I had to loosen the two caps closest to the rear main. You may need to loosen the bearing caps immediately in front of the rear one to help relieve the pressure from the crank on the seal.
0 kommentar(er)
